The Food Almanac: Thursday, October 13, 2011
In The Food Almanac, Tom Fitzmorris of the online newsletter, The New Orleans Menu, notes food facts and sayings.
Music to Blow Out Candles By
Today in 1893, a copyright was issued to Mildred and Patty Hill for the melody of the song everybody sings on birthdays. Its real name is "Good Morning To All." It remains under copyright protection. Some big restaurant chains have their own songs for birthdays, to avoid royalties.
Drinking Through History
Molly Pitcher was born today in 1754, near Trenton, N.J. Her real name was Mary Ludwig. Her nickname grew from her job carrying water to the American soldiers fighting in the Revolutionary War. When her husband was wounded, she took over his cannon, and became famous for that deed. What is less known is that she refused to ask the soldiers whether they wanted still bottled water, bottled water with bubbles, or just the tap water.
Today's Flavor
Today is National Popover Day. A popover — not to be confused with a turnover — is a tall, muffin-shaped, nearly hollow bread made with a very eggy batter. You bake them with butter in the pockets of the popover tin. They are best eaten immediately after emerging from the oven. You will eat a popover quickly. Its marvelous flavor, aroma, texture, and hollow middle grab you. The only restaurant in memory to serve them was during the brief hegemony of Tom Cowman in the kitchen of Lenfant's when the Marcello family ran it, in the 1980s. They brought the popovers to the table when you sat down, and they were irresistible.
Edible Dictionary
pastry cream, n. — A very light custard, resembling a fluffy pudding. It's most often used as a filling in a sweet pastry, such as éclairs or creampuffs. Made with milk, eggs, sugar, vanilla, and butter, it's cooked in a saucepan first, then whisked until it gets a very light texture. The critical step in making it is to refrigerate it quickly, because it has a propensity for spoiling or worse. Right before using, you whisk it to make it lighter still. It's not bad all by itself, with some fresh berries or other fruits.
Deft Dining Rule #18
Unless the goodness of the food and service are of secondary concern, never ask a restaurant for a table for more than eight people. Six is even better. If you have a larger number, divided it in to sixes and eights. At larger tables, the people at opposite ends won't be able to talk with one another, anyway.
The Old Kitchen Sage Sez
After you cook ground beef or sausage to make a stuffing (i.e., for lasagna or stuffed peppers), use the end slice from a loaf of white bread to soak up the excess fat thrown off by the meat. (Do this after removing from the pan.) The dog will love that piece of bread, too.
Food Namesakes
Pro football star Jerry Rice was born today in 1962 . . . Pro baseball pitcher Tim Crabtree hit the Big Mound today in 1969. (I wish crabs grew on trees!) . . . British actor Wilfred Pickles was born today in 1904 . . . British politician Edwina Currie was born today in 1946. She created a stir when she blew the whistle on English egg producers, noting that their eggs sometimes contained salmonella.
Words to Eat By
"In any world menu, Canada must be considered the vichyssoise of nations — it's cold, half-French, and difficult to stir." — J. Stuart Keate, Canadian writer, born today in 1913.
Words to Drink By
"No animal ever invented anything so bad as drunkeness — or so good as drink." — Lord Chesterton.