First Look: Mar Coastal Mexican Fare
The well-traveled and reasonably studied American sees the word "mar" and immediately begins to savor the flavors of the sea. So, when Mar Coastal Mexican Fare recently opened its doors in land-locked Atlanta's next door neighbor, Decatur, Ga., all eyes and palates were on it.
At the helm, or shall we say in the kitchen, is chef Joey Zelinka, a 30-year-old who grew up immersed in the Latin flavor of the American Caribbean, also known as Miami. Although he is only 30 years old, he brings quite a sense of imagination to Mar's exotically Mexican-themed menu. Having spent time under a few of Atlanta's finest chefs at Rathbun's and 4th and Swift though, he's been prepped well to do the job!
A first look at Mar Coastal began with a recent Sunday brunch. Here's the menu, reviewed:
Lobster Rosarito Benedict: Allepo chile hollandaise with a poached egg and frisee pickled shallots was perhaps the brightest star shining on the plate. The lobster was formed into a shape of Canadian bacon, fried crisp on the outside, yet moist inside. The hollandaise came with a kick, and an accompanying lift from the pickled shallot.
Huevos Divorciados: Two fried eggs on top of a flour tortilla, refried azuki beans with a smoked red sauce, roasted serrano, and salsa verde. This was a totally creative twist in which chef Zelinka completely deconstructed the classic huevos rancheros.
Pork Confit Tacos (Carnitas): Two pork confit carnitas, house flour tortillas, guacamole, beans, fresh cilantro, and onions is a classic on any Mexican themed menu — seafood house or not. Although not as heavy as we sometimes expect eating pork to be, the dish in totality showcased a clean, yet flavorful feeling that was perfect for brunch (and especially with a margarita).
Chilaquiles: Signature house-made chips with chicken, crema serrano, green sauce, chihuahua cheese, onions, and refried beans. If you want this dish, you should arrive early to be sure it's still available! It's a popular, and limited, menu item.
Heirloom Tomato Gazpacho: The chef's method of whipping the combination of this tomato-based classic gives it a creamy texture. But with one bite, it was pure summer fun, lifted by the sweetness of refreshing bits of diced watermelon.
Grilled Tuna Salad: Castelvetrano olives, wood-roasted corn, toasted pine nuts, and a habanero-orange vinaigrette are the simple ingredients. The caramelization of the corn in combination with everything else takes the idea of a tuna salad far beyond imagination. But sometimes, tuna can be a little too strong of a "fishy" taste, as was the case here. And while the fishiness may have been a bit too powerful for some, the accompanying items caused it to mellow out.
Cilantro Lime Shrimp Salad: Belgian endive, peanuts, hearts of palm, roasted leeks, grapefruit-ginger-cilantro vinaigrette... it was what gourmet cuisine is all about. Light, refreshing and harmonious are the words that best describe the chef's efforts.
Of course, you can't have a complete Sunday brunch without having a signature drink. In the case of Mar Coastal, it's the Sunday Bloody Sunday Bloody Marias. It's a concoction of spicy tequila with chef Zelinka's very own tomato mix.
The sweet ending to it all is a delightful tres leches cupcake. Sourced locally from Miss Watley, aka, The Cupcake Queen, it's a moist milk heavy cupcake with a caramel cream frosting that makes you think that it's more think that it's more than just a cupcake! You'll want to share since it's too good to keep to yourself!