You don’t head out to Gravesend, Brooklyn, and just to go to L&B Spumoni. Well, maybe you do if you’re filming a scene in a movie there — it’s that kind of New York City institution. It’s just that at that point, if you’re a pizza fanatic, you’re so close to both Di Fara and Totonno’s that it just wouldn’t be right not to visit them, too (say nothing of the roast beef pit stops at Brennan & Carr and Roll-N-Roaster that you’ll have to ignore). Started in 1938 by Ludovico Barbati, an immigrant from Torella Di Lombardi (about an hour east of Naples), the L&B Spumoni tradition began with Barbati learning how to make pizza in a garage, then peddling it in a horse and wagon until settingup at its current spot on 86th Street in Brooklyn. L&B Spumoni Gardens is now in its fourth generation, still serving its signature thin-crust Sicilian-style square pies with just a light coating of mozzarella paired with its tomato sauce. Some would argue that L& B should be renamed I&O for "Inside Out" pizza — square thin slices of tomato pies with a dusting of Parmesan cheese on top. What can’t be argued is that you have to take your slices and eat them outside, and that you shouldn’t leave without having some spumoni for dessert. Some would say it’s better than the pizza.