On The Cutting Edge Of Atlanta: Moderna Taqueria And Teatro
Bedazzled by a sexy, shimmering atmopshere ladened in a robust green moss wall positioned straight ahead upon entering, stark white leather seating to the left, and a seductive bar to the right, the groove is South Beach or L.A., all the way. But Moderna Taqueria & Teatro–the brainchild of Josh Ahlzadeh and a partner, is situated on the northern edge of Atlanta, as in the state of Georgia.
Cocktails
Having a hot look will definitely bring in the crowd, especially when you throw in al fresco dining on a busy street like Roswell Road. But to keep the crown, you need to hit the mark when it comes to food and drink. There again, Josh–a seasoned bartender with a modern approach to classic cocktails (in addition to a few fresh concotions of his own), has the perfect ideas in mind. Take for example NoNamas. At $9, this crisp and refreshing cocktail–reminscent of an adult limeaide drink with a dash of chipotle combines Sotol Blanco, St. Germain, lime, cucumbers and fresh basil leaves, is the perfect cocktail to toast to you, your friends or guest(s), epecially when accompanied by a round of bottomless, fresh made chips and salsa ($3). El Chamuco ($8) is another signature favorite at Moderna. Blanco Sotol with Chambord, lime, fresh blackberries and ginger beer makes it a sunny day favorite. Come night fall, when what unrevealed skin remains is most likely covered in black or summer white, nothing but a $9 Calibre50 will do. Think Los Nahuales Reposado, agave, orange and Angostora as the epitome of smooth and nice.
Cuisine
With cocktails flowing and music to uplift the soulful vibe you've created within, the aroma of the majesty of chef Ignacio Barquera is bound to happen to you. Chef Ignacio is the real deal: A Mexican-American who learned learned from the elders who came before him. As a result, the man cooks as if he is "madre!"
Each item listed within the menu's seven categories includes a "GF" for gluten free, a green leaf denoting vegetarian or a red pepper to indicate spicy.
A sample meal to get the gist of it all might include the $6 Taquitos Diaz from the "Starters/Shared" category. Three crispy outer shells filled with chicken, Panela cream and salsa borracha–also known as "drunken salsa." That with a side of $6 guacamole for dipping and at least two cocktails from above is the perfect mid-day weekend celebration.
From the Quesadillas/Enchiladas category, Pasilla Salmon Quesadilla ($10) was proof that madre is definitely in the house! Salmon, spinach,carmelized onions, roasted tonmatoes and chihuhua cheese is as comforting as it gets.
But the dish that brought it all home is undoubtedly Chef Ignacio's $12 Chicken Mole from the "Favoritos de la Casa"or "House favorites" category. Imagine roasted chicken with a traditional mole poblano that was richly spiced, yet lusciously smooth with a hint of chocolate at the end, with Panela cheese and a side of mexican rice so not to waste a drop of mole. This is the side of Mexican food that many of us in America have no clue exists, especially if we've never visited Mexico, or become friends with a Mexican-American family on this side of the border.
No meal at a Spanish speaking establishment should ever be considered complete without a slice of Tres leches cake. This Spanish culture tradition consists of a rich butter cake soaked in three types of milk: evaporated, condensed and whole. When made to perfection without cutting any corners, it is a nearly orgasmic experience. And at Moderna, Chef Ignacio has mastered it unlike anywhere in the state of Georgia!
For a look at the entire menu of Moderna Taqueria and Teatro, visit www.modernaatl.com. Moderna is located at 8540 Roswell Road, in Sandy Springs, Georgia, which is about 10 to 15-minutes north of the Buckhead section of Atlanta. The phone number there is 770.557.0945.