Roanoke. To New Beginnings.

Roanoke. New Beginnings.

 

 

The story goes in 900 B.C. Keith Richards established the first settlement in Roanoke. The mountains surrounding the valley were higher then, at 12,000 feet. Keith and his wandering band of minstrels were also glass blowers and the first thing they set out to do was create the Mill Mountain Star. I've also heard, because of the Star, Ben Franklin created electricity. It makes sense that, since the town is located on the Potomac River, that it was settled early and began its climb into history. Possibly, it's been there since the Earth was created. Just waiting for you, Dear Reader. Ok. None of this is true. Except for the Keith Richards part. I'm fairly certain he was around then. In truth, let's take a ride through my home city. You are in for quite a treat.

 

The Roanoke we know and love today wasn't always Roanoke, Va. Big Lick (insert that's what she said joke here?) was established in 1852. Very close to the Roanoke River, which flows through the heart of the city, was a large formation of salt. Deer will often lick salt blocks to get additional minerals. When Tasker Tosh (point o?) and Mark Evans saw this, they named the town "Big Lick". Careful. Don't get that word confused. For many generations these salt licks were home to Deer, Buffalo and even Elk. Later, based on explosive growth, the city was renamed "Roanoke", in 1882. The term "Roanoke" is from Algonquian Indians which were the original inhabitants of my soon to be beloved city. It means shell "money" or "Rawrenock" as shells were used for payment and trading in those days.

 

Roanoke was of great importance in the early formation of our country. It was a hug on the Great Wagon Road, one of the most travelled roads in colonial America and ran from Philadelphia into the Shenandoah Valley, into the Blue Ridge mountains. The Roanoke Gap, which is AKA Fancy Gap, allowed wagons to travel in and out of the valley. Still today, when entering you typically will drive up to Fancy Gap and then back down into Roanoke. It's a breathtaking view looking down and often, you are above the clouds formed. Forming off of Fancy Gap was the Wilderness Road, which ran South into Tennessee.

 

Roanoke was formed on rail. The railroads came to the valley in 1852 providing explosive growth. Later, in 1882, Roanoke became an epicenter for rail which of course, brought early commerce and travelers. It's interesting to note, its downtown market was operating at this time and still continues to fuel the growth of the city today. But more on that later. Originally, the Shenandoah Valley Railroad laid its tracks on now famous soil and became Norfolk and Western Rail, later becoming Norfolk and Southern. At the time, rail secured a city on a map that was forming a nation. The importance of this cannot be understated as it provided the ability for distribution of goods and services far and wide. In fact, Roanoke was early termed "Magic City" because it became a chartered city so quickly, spurred by the growth of rail.

 

Fast forward to current. And the topic of today's pinings on the city that I love. I am coming home to it. In less than a week I will return to stunning mountain vista views everywhere. Breathtaking looks of peaks and valleys and when the seasons change, yellows and reds as far as the eye can see. I left when I was 26. I went out into the world and saw a fair piece of it. While I'm still hungry for more, from the day I've left, I missed the mountains I was raised in. There was always an ache in my heart for those. And now, at least for a minute, I'm coming back. And I'm excited to share with you, Dear Reader, what's in store.

 

I began working at Macado's at Grand Pavilion as a bartender when I was 21. We quickly became the busiest late night place in the area. Budweiser. Bud Light. Miller Lite were your primary options. If I recall, beer such as "ultra" was not even available. You poured this swill by the pitcher and people loved it. We had these massive fish bowls we served that were always breaking in the cooler. I remember my first taste of "Craft Beer". Newcastle on draft. I had no idea at the time how much this would impact my life later. It told me there was something out there thats different from the norm. I never liked Budweiser. I detested Bud Light. I guess my palate craved something better. And I found it in my beloved Newcastle. Macado's had a solid draft list, for the time. I believe we had six drafts with four mainstays. But, the other two would occasionally switch out to something new. Something unexplored. Macado's was then, in its early stages, developing peoples taste for "Craft Beer". I have no doubt there were home brewers at the time. But I had never even thought of brewing beer. I spent more than my fair share of time drinking it. Over the last few years, as I visited, I noticed a marked change. I have seen quite a bit of this country. And I've drank my share of beer made in it. I think last count was around 500 unique beer's from the U.S. And around the world. I have hosted TV shows based around Craft Beer. I've been behind the scenes in many a brewery. I've cooked MANY dishes using beer. I am a certified beer server (www.cicerone.org) and in a few months will become the Roanoke area's only Certified Cicerone. This, according to the certification, makes me an expert in Craft Beer, similar to a Sommellier in wine. Beer is my thing. I drink it. I cook with it. I travel to see it. I write about it. I dream about it. And Roanoke is experiencing a Craft Beer explosion! But first, lets explore a few other notable's you'll want to visit when you come.

 

 

High on a peak atop Mill Mountain, the Roanoke Star, or Mill Mountain star seemingly guards the valley with a watchful eye. It's one of the first things you look for as native when returning. There's a peaceful comfort in seeing it. Mill Mountain Star is the world's largest freestanding man made illuminated star. In 1949, it was built by the Roanoke Merchant's Association to celebrate the start of the Christmas shopping season. Originally, it was intended to be lit during this time but became so popular with the residents, it remained lit as a permanent structure. To start, the Star was all white in color. If the color changed to red, it meant there was a traffic fatality in the city, and acted as recognition and mourning for the loss of a resident. In 1976, (I was a toddler at this point) Roanoke decided to celebrate the bicentennial birthday of our nation and the colors were changed. A single star of red with inner white stars of white and blue shone over the valley to commemorate the patriotism my fellow Roanoker's share for this nation. On September 11, 2011 the Star changed to all white. At 88.5 feet tall and an elevation of 1703 ft the Star is built with 2,000 feet of neon tubing and needs 17,500 watts of power to operate. Standing below it, you can hear the hum and vibration of the Star itself, as you look out over the Roanoke Valley. At it's base is a fond childhood memory, the Mill Mountain Zoo. Yes, Dear Reader, carved into the side and top of a mountain is quaint zoo which you will not want to miss when you visit. In it there are many animals, as well as many of my childhood memories. My Mom often took me to the zoo as a child. The Mill Mountain Star is a beacon for a city and stands as recognition that there is something special here.

 

Following the child hood memory trail is the Downtown City Market. When I left, it was struggling. You began to see businesses closed and boards on the windows. Through the years, whispers of resurgence were common in talk about downtown. My last visit, and one of the reasons I decided to return, greeted me with a vibrant downtown community. People walking from eatery to eatery, visiting the shops. It's exciting to see lofts now prominent and people living there to have the ability to walk. The food scene is not what you would expect from a city so guarded with mountains. The ethnicity is astounding. Indian food with its pleasant heat. Thai with exciting colors.

Brazilian food (red means stop, green means go!) and Alehouses and Speakeasy's. But two downtown stand out. And no visit would be complete without a stop.

 

The Roanoke Weiner Stand. This ranks as high as any when I think back to being a kid. It was a pleasure and a treat to stop by. Opening in 1916 and continuing as an institution to this day, the menu is fairly simple. And I think that's what makes it so special. There is beauty in simplicity. The focus on one thing, done so well, it doesnt need to be changed. They have hot dogs. And they have fries. Order two dogs "all the way" and you will be handed a dog that will change your life. The buns are warmed in a seemingly ancient bun warmer. The motion in which they prep your dog can be missed literally in the blink of an eye, its so fast. Home made chili, mustard and onions are slathered on. You will then most likely stand at a bar top and inhale these gifts from the gods themselves. Honestly, they are good dogs. Nothing extravagant. You as a visitor may not taste the history and heritage of the city. But a native knows the deal. Because its not about the food. Its about eating a memory. Its about the bell ringing when you walk in and the smells of being a kid again.

 

A Bowl with and a Cheesy Western. Words heard echo'd into Roanoke's halls of history and a rite of passage for every Roanoker. Late at night, after a round or twelve with your pals, you head towards Church Street. A well lit building with cramped parking, it glows like a late night beacon beckoning to your soul. As you walk in, on your right is the line where the cooks make their masterpieces. Prepare for a wait. Stand or sit, or wait outside, its worth it. Fearful the building may crumble around you, you shout your order "A Bowl with and a Cheesy Western!" No, dont look at the menu. I've heard there are other items but dont be fooled. This is what youre after. That order will get you a cheeseburger with an egg on it and a bowl of chili. TT (as the locals call it) was founded by N. (Nick) Bullington on February 13th, 1930. I'm fairly certain the line cooks just reincarnate back into the TT line cooks when they die. His recipe for chili comes from San Antonio. Roanoke was one of many cities considered when he decided to take a bite out of the restaurant pie. The signs are clear. "We seat 1,000 people....10 at a time." "We don't take checks or play with bumblebee's". Trust me, Dear Reader, this is a life changer. And it will absolutely take the wallop out of your hangover the next day.

 

 

As a kid, the world was my playground. I had a great childhood. I had land to roam and explore. We knew when it was time to come in because it got dark. I lived a few minutes away from Vinton, Va., but was practically raised in this small hamlet of a town. My parents business was in Vinton. I had family there. One of the most magical sounds a child can hear in the 70's in Vinton, Va. Was the sound of the bell announcing a mystical truck's short arrival. In this truck was housed a lemonade unlike any other in the world. Virginia can get hot in the summer. Over 100 degree's. And nothing refreshed quite like a Deb's Lemonade. Crisp and tart, with a sweet overtone, bits of lemon cascading through the ice. And at the bottom, like a hidden treat, was a slice of lemon. Now, its ice. Its lemons. Its a bit of sugar. And its a lot of magic. It's tasting a memory. No trip to Roanoke would be complete without Deb's.

 

We've talked about a few of the staples, a bit of the history and my memorable childhood terrorizing local neighborhoods. Let's talk about the crux of this article. Craft Beer. I could have never imagined a craft beer scene like I've seen grow in Roanoke. Of course, Craft Beer is popular in many states and around the world. It's experienced a resurgence in the last twenty years that boggles the mind. But, this country was founded on beer. In the early 1800's we had over 4000 breweries, small and large. In the 1920's we dived down to 80. The 1970's and 1980's saw home brewers working hard on small batch beer, many illegally due to state laws. But, this was a passion. There are no words to describe crafting and drinking your own beer. You took just a few basic ingredients and you made LIFE. Beer is alive in its formation. The science is mind boggling. But here we are. In Roanoke, Virginia.

 

The Craft Beer industry is a whopping $630 Million Dollar industry (this info from my good friends over at @vabeertrail). There are currently seven "breweries" in Roanoke. Several of these are classified, and rightly so, microbreweries. Very small in house batches. Others, such as Soaring Ridge and Flying Mouse are setup to truly make beer in volume. At least enough to service the area. And honestly, these are my two favorites. Soaring Ridge is a warehouse type building with glass front. So as you drive by, you can see the people at tables and the bar socializing. Often, as with many breweries they have live music on certain nights, and you may see a food truck (more on Roanoke's Food Trucks later) perusing the parking lot. But the beer....folks....the beer. Its good. Its not belgium ancient. It's not Yuengling or Anchor Steam old, tried and tests against time itself. But its GOOD beer. Shockingly so. Mosey down to Troutville, just outside of Roanoke and you find yourself a true gem, hidden against the back drop of the Appalachian Trail. Flying Mouse, if you can find it (I feel like thats intended), is WELL worth the drive and effort required. Turning into a nondescript road and driving for a half mile on gravel in the Virginia Woodlands, curious if you ar.....oh. There it is! I see the lights! More modern in structure, this brewery is set up for a mighty capacity. I had the flight which made me decide, then and there, I want to be a part of this industry. Drinking that beer made it known in my head, this is good. And its going to get better. Just up the road is another favorite, Starr Hill. Not far is Devils Backbone. Virginia wine has been strutting its stuff for years and years. Now, its time to put America's favorite beverage and my favorite state center stage. Craft Beer has arrived in Virginia. And by the time you read this, so has The Dive Whisperer.

 

 For full pictoral, see http://thedivewhisperer.tumblr.com/post/112329165937/roanoke-new-beginnings