Catching the Bitters Bug
Recipe of the day
Brad Thomas Parsons, renowned writer, blogger, and genuine cocktail enthusiast, got bit by the bitters bug. What began a couple years ago as research for a short article on the subject, has developed into an unshakable interest that inspired the just-released book, Bitters: A Spirited History of a Classic Cure-All with Cocktails, Recipes, and Formulas. In it, you'll not only find a brief and approachable history of the essential cocktail flavoring agent, but also a guide to today's most popular brands, as well as beautifully illustrated recipes for homemade bitters and cocktails to make with them.
We recently caught up with the author to talk bitters and the book.
So tell us a little about the book, the inspiration behind it, and your interest in the subject.
Well, I'm coming to this from a writer's perspective, not a bartender's. I had my hands in the community and noticed bitters popping up everywhere, so I started talking to bartenders and learning about them. A few years ago, I wrote this short piece for Seattle Met on the subject and just couldn't shake the interest. Eventually, someone said I should write a book on bitters, but at that point I still wasn't sold. Then I revisited a copy of David Wondrich's Imbibe! and read this part where he said something along the lines of, "If bitters were to get the attention they deserve, they could fill a whole book." That was my eureka moment. And when I started really researching I noticed that a lot of the books people were using were out of date, so I saw it as an opportunity and jumped on it. Bitters are a hot trend now, but if you look back to the original cocktail recipe, they're an elemental, essential part of the definition. My hope is that the book captures and demystifies the topic for people who don't know about them, but also speaks to the experts and the DIY crowd.
Speaking of the DIY crowd, I think that's something that really surprised me the most, how relatively easy bitters are to make.
That's the big secret: Making your own bitters is not that scary — there is an artistry to it though. But the recipes I present in the book I hope people riff on. Orange bitters is a gateway recipe, for example, and especially now that it's citrus season you can do things like blood orange or satsuma, or even a citrus blend. Sourcing some of the more exotic ingredients — the roots and herbs, etc. — can scare people off, but they're relatively affordable and it's just a matter of tracking them down.
What are some of your favorite bitters flavoring agents? Any fails, ingredients that didn't really work for making bitters?
Not to be all Johnny Locavore, but I like to take a cue from the season — so, you know, citrus in the winter. I wanted to nail down a Concord grape bitters but it turned out weak, not bitter enough, and more wine-like in character because the grapes overpowered. I wouldn't call it a fail, just an experiment that didn't make it to prime-time. Berry bitters and sweeter ingredients can be tough, that's why you don't see a lot of peach and strawberry-flavored bitters. Generally speaking, though, I think it's important to start with the cocktail first. It's not necessarily about saying, "I have this crazy bitters, what can I make with it?" But more more about what does this drink need to acheive balance? I recommend walking around your city's international district or local farmers' market and seeing what you find and what inspires you.
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